There is a rapture on the lonely shore;
There is society, where none intrudes.
By the deep sea, and music in its roar:
I love not man the less, but Nature more...

-Lord Byron

Definition of Walkabout :

a short period of wandering as an occasional interruption of regular work
Showing posts with label Cabo San Lucas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cabo San Lucas. Show all posts

01 February 2015

low tide at Playa Bandera

It's low tide as I pull into the dusty parking lot of Playa Bandera. There is a man in a beach chair with his sombrero pulled down over his eyes, sleeping in the mid day sun. Business is slow, but that seems to be par for the course in this desolate area I've stumbled upon.

A few locals are enjoying drinks near the man, but the rest of the beach is wide open and empty. I wander over to the far side, where there are only sea gulls and strange ocean carcasses left to dry rot in the endless sun.
The water is refreshingly cool as I walk in the never ending paradise. I stumble upon the occasional sea creature, but they are scared by my shadow and dart off quickly.
The bread crumbs that remain in my backpack become a feast for the local birds. They entertain as I lazily sit in the soft sand and watch them squawk and scurry for a morsel.

The stillness has me hypnotized as the wind softly blows.

A shell is cracked open in a heart shape, and the beauty of this one image causes a tear to roll down my sun kissed cheek. They say it is better to have loved and lost than to have never loved at all.

Perhaps.
To me, every hour of the day is an unspeakably perfect miracle.

24 January 2015

Playa El Encantu

I hop in the car and just start driving, no set destination in mind. My darker side perhaps wants to test the resolve of the human condition.

With that thought I find a dirt road that leads me out of San Jose Del Cabo and into the lush mountains above. Swerving the car around deep holes in the road so I can venture towards the unknown.

The sand turns soft under the tires so I pull over before I regret going any further. I have nothing but sand dunes, cacti, and ocean surrounding me.
The bellowing dust of the occasional four wheeler breaks the sound of silence. My butterfly friends don't seem to mind. The distant rain clouds smile in the afternoon light. The fading glow of the day lasts an eternity out here in the empty desert.
As I become mesmerized to the sounds of the ocean waves breaking upon the shoreline, a British couple emerge over a sand hill, hand in hand, the man carrying a basket of empty food containers and a finished bottle of wine.

It's always nice to see True Love.

30 December 2014

Playa Cerritos

Cruising on down the Baja California Sur highway, enjoying whales breaching to my right, and the beautiful Mexican landscape to my left. The worries of the work world are melting away with each passing kilometer.

In the corner of my eye I spot what appears to be a mosque built on the edge of the cliff, overlooking the ocean. I slow down and look for the unmarked dirt road so that I can explore further.

The dirt road leads to a surf camp and recreational vehicle park, with a smattering of personalities strewn about...American surfers sitting around a fire, Canadian travelers in their RVs drinking Tecate or Corona, people in tents looking to live off the grid, etc....

I wave as I pass each one, with friendly salutations given in return. Their are no judgments found here, as we all seem to be striving for the same thing.....freedom to just live the way we want.

The mosque building is actually a hotel, although the owners are about to go out of business. I park on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific and hike down to the water.
The tide is coming in as I get closer to the shore. All manner of crabs are scrambling on the rocks, bracing for the impact of the waves as they crash upon them. I see the remaining shells of crabs that lost this never ending battle with the ocean.

As I'm focusing on a particularly colorful monster crab, I pay no attention to the waves until it is too late. With a loud crack the wave slams against the rock and drenches both myself and the crab. Of course I'm taking a video during the whole ordeal, and the scene is captured in all of it's mundane brilliance.
I laugh uncontrollably as I take off my shirt and shorts and pin them to the car windows to dry off in the sun as I rest in Playa Cerritos.

29 December 2014

playa El Mirador

Without much stress, I use my own internal compass to find Highway 19 out of Cabo, and before I know it, I'm cruising along the BCS coast toward the town of Todos Santos.

It's a little over an hour, and with the window rolled down and the music turned way up, I relish the tingling feeling of sun burnt skin.

The town, not without it's subtle charm, doesn't have the "it" factor I was looking for. The Hotel California stationed here seems more to trap tourists than having any historical or musical significance. I'm somewhat bummed, and start to head back....

Only a couple miles outside of town, and a car heading the opposite direction on the highway suddenly veers off onto a dirt road, and disappears. The urge to follow is a strong one.

I reason that if my head is to become severed and put on a stick by drug dealers and left in the Mexican desert for vultures, it will happen regardless....so I turn quickly down the same dirt road.
The other car is nowhere to be seen. I find old, abandoned buildings in various stages of decay. I can hear the ocean but can't see it as the desert brush and cacti obscure all view. At a crossroads in the dirt, a weathered sign has the words "El Mirador" painted on.

I follow until the sand looks too deep for my little rental car to enter without getting stuck. I park and look around me....

The beach is perhaps fifty yards away. I cautiously step to avoid a chance encounter with a rattler, and find myself completely alone on a pristine sandy beach with massive ocean waves from the incoming tide.
I run like a wild horse, kicking my feet in the water and screaming to the pelicans overhead. Shoes leave my feet, and the freedom that only childhood holds floods my body, if only for a little while.
The smile from such an unexpected discovery stays with me the rest of the day, as I look for more little dirt roads to explore.

28 December 2014

Whale Watch Cabo

My first night in Cabo was peacefully uneventful. I acclimate to my new surroundings, enjoy watching the sun set over the infamous Cabo Arch, and map out the next day's adventures. This marks the first time that I've driven a car, by myself, in a foreign country.

With the breaking dawn I rise and make my way to downtown Cabo San Lucas. The charm of the tiny one way streets end up confusing me, and I circle the area a few times before figuring out where I'm suppose to park. The joys of solo travel.

I walk past the Wyndham hotel and search for the Whale Watch Cabo outfit, which was located at one of the docks of the marina. I find that I'm going to be the only one on the tour, except for the guide and captain. This suits me perfectly, and before I know it, we are on the water....
My guide is a young lady by the name of Liria, a marine biologist from Spain. It is her first season here in Cabo. Our captain is Santos, a friendly chap with limited English, but his jokes in Spanish keep a smile on my face. Liria and I both have a passion for travel and Nature, and we talk as the panga boat heads out.

We start by seeing the beach of Love & Divorce, the Arch of Cabo close up, and a colony of sea lions resting upon the rocks this early morning. One in particular is alone on a small rock, and I can see the bloody injury on his back.

"Probably a boat propeller, but you never really know...."


The mighty Pacific ocean is before us, and as we all look toward the horizon, dotting the watery landscape are the pillars of exhaling air of humpback whale blowholes. It's an incredibly exciting sight to witness, and both Liria and I are wide eyed and camera ready as Captain Santos tells us to hold onto the boat railing as he races towards the mammals.
Within the first thirty minutes, we witness two amazing full whale breaches. No one really no knows why the whales do this, although there are many theories circulating. I prefer the not knowing, as some things in this life are better off unknown. It creates a magical mystery.
In addition to the whales, a family of dolphins join us for the fun. They race alongside the boat, jumping into the air with ease. I drop my camera into the clear Sea of Cortez waters to see them from a different view.
As we start to head back, a Mother and her calf are spotted fairly close to shore ( in water about 30 meters deep). They show off their flukes before splashing their tails against the oceans surface and dive down and out of sight.
Being a witness to such gentle giants in a space as vast as the ocean truly puts one in their place in the universe.

27 December 2014

stopping the clock in Cabo

"Do you remember the name of the town Red? a little place right on the Pacific?"

"Zihuatanejo."

Those words have been rattling around in my head for twenty years, with dreams of seeing for myself the bluest waters sparkling from the Mexican sun. The plane touches down and my feet step onto the earth of the Baja California Sur.
Days are filled finding dirt roads that lead to uninhabited beaches, colorful sunrises and sunsets to rival any artist's palette, observing life under the surface of the mighty Pacific. All of those stories are to be forthcoming, but for now, lets set the mood...
Cabo San Lucas....